Roadrunner Trailer
& Hitch Company
700 W 4th St. Eureka, MO 63025
636.938.4570
RoadrunnerTrailerAndHitch.com
 
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We can custom design and manufacture what you are looking for
 
Our custom trailers are built to utilize your specific construction needs.  Some features include racks, taller sides and storage boxes.
We also carry standard trailer types that come in various sizes and weight capacities. Standard sizes range from 8ft. to 18ft. in length, and 4' to 102" in width. Capacities range from 2,000lb.up to 14,000lb.

 Be sure to contact us for more information on our complete product line.

 

 

Towing Information
 
Types of Hitches Hitching Up

1)   Weight-carrying hitches

Weight-carrying hitches are by far the most popular and carry all the trailer tongue weight directly on the rear of the vehicle. They are commonly used to tow small and medium-sized trailers.

2)   Weight-distributing hitches

Weight-distributing hitches are usually recom­mended for heavier trailers because they even out the trailer load between the wheels of the tow vehicle and the wheels of the trailer, thus improving steering and braking control. Two parts are required: the receiver, which bolts to the vehicle, and the spring bar assembly.

Before deciding which type is right for you, consult your car or truck manual for the manufacturer's recommendation and the load capacity of your vehicle.

IMPORTANT:

The total weight of your trailer when loaded must not exceed the load capacity of the hitch. The capac­ity is stamped on the hitch itself or is on a non-remov­able sticker.

The trailer should be in a level position when hitched to the tow vehicle.

Be sure the hitch ball is sized to fit the coupler on your trailer. The coupler is marked with the correct ball diameter either 1-7/8", 2" or 2-5/16", and weight Capacity.

Be sure you close the coupler trigger tightly on the ball, and use the locking device to ensure trigger does not lift.

1)   Back your tow vehicle as close as possible to the trailer; it's easier and safer to do this than to pull the trailer to your car or truck.

2)   Release the coupler locking device.

3)  
Raise the front end of the trailer coupler directly over the hitch ball,- then lower it until it is seated on the hitch ball, covering it completely.

4)    
Check under the coupling to ensure the ball clamp is below the ball and not riding on top of it.

5)  
Latch the coupler to the hitch ball. Make sure it's locked in place by lift­ing up the trailer tongue.
 If the coupler comes loose from the ball, unlatch it and go back to step 3.

6)   Make sure your jack is fully raised.

7)  
If you have a weight-distributing hitch with spring bars, follow the above procedures, then attach the spring bar chain to the trailer and tighten it until your trailer and car are in a nor­mal level position.

8)  
If your trailer has a surge brake, break­away cable, or chain, attach the cable or chain to your tow vehicle, allowing enough slack for you to make tight turns.

9)  
Attach the safety chains (as described in the safety chains section).

10)
Connect the trailer wiring harness to the lighting system of your tow vehicle and check its operation (see the "Pre-Trip Checklist").

Safety Chains  

 Safety chains on your trailer provide added insurance that the trailer will not detach from the  tow vehicle when underway.We strongly recommend that you crisscross the chains under the trailer tongue. Attach the chain on the left side of the trailer tongue to the hole or ring on the right side of the hitch ball. Attach the chain on the right side of the trailer tongue to the hole or ring on the left side of the hitch ball. This prevents the tongue from dropping to the road if the trailer coupler separates from the hitch ball. Rig the chains with just enough slack to permit tight turns.

Safety Chain Strength: The Society of Automotive Engineers and the Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission have adopted the following standards:
 

Text Box:  

Text Box:  
Trailer     Trailer
Class
     Weight


Class 1
    2000 lb. GVWR
Class II
    2000-3500 lbs. GVWR
Class III
   3500-5000 lbs. GVWR
Class IV   5000-10,000 lbs. GVWR

Safety Chain Minimum
Breaking Strength

.
2000 lbs.
3500 lbs.
5000 lbs.

The GVWR of the trailer

Trailering Tactics.  

With a trailer in tow, you're operating a vehicle combination that's longer, heavier and sometimes wider and taller than you're used to. So you'll have to make some compensating adjustments in your driving practices.

Take a "Shakedown Cruise." At least one short trial run before your first trip will help familiarize you with your trailer's operating characteristics. It will also let you know that the lights, brakes, hitch, etc., are working properly.

Slow Down. Moderate to slow speeds put less strain on your car and trailer.

Allow Extra Time and Space. You'll need both when passing and stopping, especially if your trailer has no brakes.

Check Rear View Mirrors. Doing this frequently will let you know that your trailer is riding properly. We recommend outside rear view mirrors on both sides of your tow vehicle.

Swing Wider. You need to make wider swings at curve and corners because your trailer's wheels are closer to the inside of a turn than the wheels of your car or truck.

Pass with Extra Care. It takes more time and dis­tance to get around a slower vehicle and return to the right lane when you've got a trailer in tow. Watch the Wind. To avoid swaying, be prepared for sudden changes in air pressure and wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass from either direction. Slow down a bit and keep a firm hold on your steering wheel. Aim straight down your lane.

 Conserve Fuel. You'll go farther on a tank of gas at moderate speeds. Higher speeds increase wind resistance against the trailer and reduce your gas mileage significantly.
 

Avoid Sudden Stops and Starts. This can cause skidding, sliding, or jackknifing, even if your trailer has brakes. Avoid quick stops while turning. Smooth, gradual starts and stops will improve your gas mileage.

 

Signal Your Intentions. Let surrounding vehicles know what you intend to do well before you stop, turn, change lanes, or pass.


Shift to a Lower Gear.
A lower gear will help ease the load on the transmission and engine when going over steep hills, sand, gravel, or dirt roads. If your tow vehicle has an "overdrive" gear, shifting out of overdrive to a lower gear may improve your gas mileage.


Always be Courteous.
Make it as easy as possible for faster-moving vehicles to pass you. Keep to the right of the road and prepare to slow down if passing vehicles need extra time to return to their proper lane.


Don't Tailgate.
Allow as least one car and trailer length between you and the vehicle in front for each 10 mph on your speedometer.


If a Problem Occurs.
Don't panic. Stay cool. Say you experience a sudden bumping or fish-tailing. It may indicate a flat tire. Don't jam on the brakes or mash the accelerator in an attempt to drive out of it. Instead, come to a stop slowly as you keep driving in as straight a line as possible. If conditions permit, coast to a very slow speed and try to avoid braking, except when your wheels are straight and your trailer and tow vehicle are in line with each other.

If your trailer begins to fishtail as you accelerate to highway speed, back off the accelerator a bit. This should stop the fishtailing. If it begins again as you increase speed, stop and check your load. It probably isn't distributed evenly from side to side, or it's too far back to put a sufficient load on the hitch ball. It is recommended that about 10% of the trailer load be on the hitch. Redistribute the load as necessary before continuing.

 
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